160 replies to this topic

[Bettina]

OCD,

Thank you for your post.  I am most interested in the book and may even have a very slim chance to purchase it.
Of course I can’t be sure but I believe the missing of the specification as a stone waller in Irish may have been caused because this differentiation was never made and stone masons in the course of time were expected to apply both techniques, i.e. dry stone masonry or masonry with combining components.  For centuries dry stone field boundaries were built by the farmers themselves.  In one of the legends surrounding Grianan it is mentioned, that Dagda  brought in two masters of masonry to mark the grave of his son with a surrounding wall. Garbhan chiselled the stones with the pride of his trade and name into just the right shape, so they could nestle into each other and Imheall fitted them together in the eternal shape of the circle to protect the sad side of a son having gone before his father. Since those legends were written down in old Irish and many centuries later, it is very difficult to determine, if mason is the right translation.

As far as combining the two techniques is concern, and this combination only occurs on dry stone constructed historic buildings and monuments in Ireland, it is probably save to say, that this method has come into practice recently and is only used by those in charge of the maintenance of these buildings.
At Grianan there are traces of older repair works in the shape of coarse mortar or concrete and a mixture of tar and gravel. This hints heavily at quick and cheap fixes and the failure to employ a stone mason in the first place to carry out the work required.

Please find below a vertical photo of Griananfrom 2007 from Mark Fearon and an old one, how it used to look.

With all the best wishes
Bettina

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[ocd]

Hi Bettina

I think the farmers would have been the best people to contact when they decided to restore granian aileach.
Farmers have to make their walls stock proof, and sturdy. Here in cornwall some beef farmers lay turf across the top of their cornish hedges to stop the bullocks knocking out the top stones and destroying the hedge bit by bit. It's easier, stronger and smarter than a cemented cope or section along the top of the wall.
Anyway the book I mentioned is called "Dry Stone Walling" by Colonel F. Rainsford-Hannay. It was published a second time by a society he founded.
There is an excellent picture of Clickiminn broch in the book, multi-level dry stone construction with barely a stone out of place, he dates it as 1600 years old.
If the book were mine Bettina I'd post it to you, unfortunately it isn't - sorry

ocd

[Bettina]

Thanks OCD,

"Farmers residing round the hill" rebuilt Grianan together with Dr. Walter Bernard in 1874-78 and "if a portion were badly built, it had of course to be taken down and put up properly".
I have not seen the turf on top of a dry stone wall here nor heard of it but it seems a logical and very practical choise.

I will contact the bookshop in Carngonagh to see if there is a chance to get the book. What society did he founded?
If I can't get the book at all; how big is it and can it be scanned in?

Maurice Harron got two letters from the Department of Enviroment, Heritage and Local Goverment (I post them as soon as He sends me a copy), saying that "The Chief Archaeologist Brian K. Duffy has taken charge of the matter and says : I will issue a detailed reply to your letter after I have reviewed the works being carried out by OPW at the National Monument".
Although is may sound like light at the end of the tunnel, I have not much confidence in this detailed reply. The archaeologists of Ireland did not and still don't raise their voices noticeable against the destruction of the Tara valley. And I am not aware that they protested against the concreting of Newgrange (5000 years old) and Skellig Michael (circa 1500 years old). But we have to see.
In the meantime I keep trying to trace a little bit more of Grianan's true past (I found what looks like collapsed burials on the side of the hill) and hopefully raising some more awarness and interest.

With all the best wishes
Bettina

PS: I found this on the Save Tara site

2009 is UNESCO's year for celebrating / recognising humanity's ongoing relation to the Cosmos and the influence of that relationship throughout "pre-history" and history up to today, as evidenced by Ireland's ancient sites and our recent re-discoveries and continuing exploration of their "ancient technology" using modern computers etc.

As an addendum to the petition maybe a reminder or request for details of UNESCO's plans for their "ASTRONOMY AND WORLD HERITAGE INITIATIVE" 2009 in relation toIreland's known ancient observatories and especially within the Tara complex, perhaps not yet fully re-assessed but under threat from the the M.3 in Meath and possible other developements elsewhere around Ireland.

[ocd]

Hi Bettina

The turf on the wall is a regional variation, in fact the cornish call their dry stone walls "cornish hedges" and get offended if you call them dry stone walls.
The turf on the top of the wall will bind the stones together while allowing the wall to remain flexible, simple, effective and easy to repair.
The "cornish hedge" is built up either side with stone, Granite or Slate and then in filled with earth. Each course is covered with a light sprinkle of earth before the next course of stone is laid. The essential thing with a cornish hedge is to pack the earth infill down hard otherwise the hedge collapses. The infill still allows water to seep through, the cornish hedge is a regional variation of dry stone walling, I might of mentioned this technique before?

anyway the society colonel rainsford-hannay founded is called stewartry of kirkcudbright drystane dyking committe

I don't know if they're still in existance, they were in 1973!

ocd

[Bettina]

OCD,
I still had no time to look for the book. The weather was too good and there are thousands of things to do when the sun shines on what is here a rather rare occassion.

One of the councillors forwarded a text document he received from the OPW.
Dr. Walter Bernard did not restore Grianan on Straigue Fort in Kerry. Just because he mentioned the fort once in his report does not necessary mean he based his reconstruction on it. It seems strange that the OPW advised in November 2006 to read his report to the Royal Academy but don't seem to be aware of the contents themselves. Dr. Bernard's rebuild was entirely based on the remains of the still existing structure and a trial and error approach. Reconstructed sections were taken down again, when they didn't seem to fit the overall appearence of the monument.
As for the rest; repeat doesn't improve poor performance.

Grianan Aileach – National Monument No.140
Draft  Background notes to OPW `s preservation works to date

Pre OPW condition of the site
A detailed illustrated description of the site can be found in the Ordnance
Survey Memoirs of 1837. The remains of the original structure were in a totally collapsed state with the surviving stonework scattered around the hilltop.
Between 1874 and 1878, a local man, Dr. Walter Bernard undertook a rebuilding project on the site of Grianan Aileach. His excavations appear to
have revealed the remains of small collapsed sections of the lower level of the outer wall. In the absence of further archaeological evidence for its original appearance, he modelled his rebuild on the relatively intact Staigue Iron Age Fort in County Kerry. (Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy Vol1 1879)

History of collapse and the  need for a more permanent repair method
When the site came into State Care approximately thirty years later the
restored walls were already in a dilapidated state with extensive collapse
of the outer stonework. (76TH annual Report of Commissioners of Public Works 1907/08)
Despite OPW efforts to carry out patch repair work to the monument over the next 80 years, OPW files show that  Bernard`s work was  unstable and collapse was reoccurring on a regular basis.
In 1989 ,following another major collapse and short term patch repair work,
OPW undertook to monitor the condition of the monument and investigate
intervention methods which could stabilise the structure. A specialist multidisciplinay team was assembled to address the problem.

Present OPW conservation effort
In 2001 a detailed archaeological and engineering investigation was undertaken which revealed sections of the line ( marked with tar) of the disturbed ancient prerestoration structure and confirmed the shape and outline of Bernard`s work.  
Because of the significant amenity value of Bernard`s restored monument OPW considered that it would not be appropriate or feasible to dismantle and remove Bernard`s restored stonework and to leave the site in its pre restoration collapsed state.
The engineer recommended that the bulging sections of walling which were
liable to collapse should be dismantled and rebuilt to Bernard`s inward
sloping design. Due to the instability of the underlying surviving stonework
modern  concrete supports were inserted at the base of the rebuilt sections and  over the lintols of the internal passageways. The restored external walling is constructed by OPW craftsmen to match Bernard`s design
but with a sound central fill which would considerably improve the structures future stability.
The use of modern materials and methods in the preservation of collapsing ancient structures is standard conservation practise. The wall tops are secured with a mortar finish in an effort to prevent interference causing stone collapse and the resultant risk to the visitor.

Future Protection of the Site and Visitor Access
Controlled access to the car-park (joint arrangement between Local Authority and OPW) appears to be working reasonably well.
Incidences of overnight camping, fires , general vandalism etc. have decreased. It is still difficult to control litter dumping and maintain site signage.
There is an ongoing risk of future damage to the walls of the fort from stone dislodgement and general abuse. Access to the wall tops could constitute
a public health and safety risk

The prominent location of the car park can detract from the amenity of and
views from the central stone fort. It is sited within the archaeological remains of the prehistoric outer ditches  of the Monument and hinders a full appreciation of the extent and significance of the site.

[shiny]

Here's an indication of the mentality that Bettina is fighting sgainst.............................


               http://www.labour.ie...3802394427.html




        

[Bettina]

Shiny,
Nothing surprises me anymore. Last year they put five men in prison without a verdict for nine months for obstructing the court. Most of the five men were defending their own land against a pipeline to be laid through it.

A few days ago, as I went up to Grianan Aileach, I noticed a colouration at some parts of the monument. At closer inspection I discovered that the OPW painted the very light grey cement/concrete from the 'repairs' carried out last year and the year before in some shade of brown. I can only presume that this was done to disguise the out of place and time looking and massive use of this material.

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[Bettina]

see above

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[ocd]

hi bettina
They don't seem to have even a basic understanding of a dry stone structure?
They seem to point the finger of blame at an in correct infill, while at the same time listing a whole host of glaring mistakes and inappropriate construction methods as the answer to the problem?
It's a dry stone structure and it needs to remain a drystone structure!
This mixing of techniques happens in Cornwall too, and the same thing happens here as well, the wall falls down within a year or so.
immovable cemented top sections of stone built on top of a movable independent flexible structure? oh dear!
Sorry I sound like a broken record.

ocd

[shiny]

Surely daubing an ancient monument with paint is a criminal offence?




The paint job looks very amateurish, so I'll withhold judgement on who is responsible.

[Bettina]

OCD, Shiny, thank you both for your reply.
Defacing or destroying a National monument is not a criminal offence if it is done by the Department for Environment, Heritage and Local Government according to the National Monuments (Amendment) Act 2004

So just in case, I asked a friend to paint Grianan Ailigh.

May I proudly present Seoirse Ó Dochartaigh'spainting.
We will exhibit it over the summer around Inishowen in the hope, that it will raise awareness of the rapidly dwindling heritage of Inishowen. The utter lack of care, consideration and respect shown at Grianan, applies to all of Inishowen - lock, stock, barrel and heritage.

[shiny]

That is absolutely brilliant.................WOW.

  How can I get a copy?


                                

[Bettina]

I am still in utter disbelief of how brilliant this painting is.
I know that Seoirse is getting prints made right now. Going by prints he got made from previous paintings they are very high quality and around 12x18 inches and cost around 20 euros.
I am not sure how he proceeds with shipping cost but if you go to his website and contact him, you will know soon. He added his painting to his blog

GRIANÁN AILIGH  [May 2008]
New painting project soon to go on exhibition in Inishowen: Grianán Ailigh [The Sun Palace of Aileach].
Grianán Ailigh  “…he built her a house set out with gold and silver and brass and gems, so that by night it was as brilliant as by day...”*
 
If the truth be told, no-one knows who built Grianán Ailigh. It is shrouded by the same mists of oblivion that surround the deaths of John F. Kennedy and Marilyn Monroe. We are doomed never to know the truth about any of these great unsolved mysteries.
 
The thread-bare facts of history mingle with the myths and legends. Beyond the historic period, into pre-history and the Stone Age, it’s really anyone’s guess what lay beneath or around the fortress on Greenan Mountain. So much alteration, so much occupation and re-occupation - not to mention the wanton vandalism not only of recent times but of the distant past. There is little hope now of ever understanding the full history of Grianán Ailigh – the Sun Palace of Aileach – and even less about the people associated with it, despite Dr. Walter Bernard’s arresting reconstruction of it, stone by stone, in the 1870s.
 
Directly above the beautiful McCormick-designed chapel stands Dr. Bernard’s restoration work: a stone fort known today as “Grianán Ailigh”. His model for it grew out of the remains of a structure originally built – according to Dr. Brian Lacy - about AD 789 by the common ancestors of the O’Neills, the McSweeneys and the McLaughlins. These ancestors once ruled the whole of Inishowen and were known then as Cenél nÉoghain – the Race of Owen. The O’Neills eventually went on to gain all of Co. Derry and Co. Tyrone and become one of the most powerful families in Ulster.
Many colourful myths have survived describing Grianán Ailigh: who built it and why, and who exactly dwelt in it at specific times, but it does appear that a “new” structure was built at some stage on top of a much earlier Bronze Age or Iron Age hilltop fort. The “new” structure may indeed have looked similar to the structure we see today. But there is some evidence in the early literature that there was once a beautiful building standing atop Greenan that was made from the red wood of the yew tree, but such a building would never have survived the centuries. The literature tells us that it was “…a house set out with gold and silver and brass and gems, so that by night it was as brilliant as by day…”
 
Apart from that, we know practically nothing about any of the structures, new or old; myths have all but obscured much of the real history up to about AD 789 when some expansion might have taken place. But even this may have been a monument of some kind rather than something possessing defensive and/or residential features. It’s likely too that activities and events on a nearby hill called Elaghmore - just across the political border with Northern Ireland - were somehow confused with those of Grianán Ailigh. Elaghmore was originally written “Aileach Mhór”, so one can see immediately how the two sites could easily have been merged into one mythical entity. “Aileach”, as a name, may even be a reference an ancient territory peopled by the Cenél nÉoghain covering a wider region that embraced both Grianán Ailigh and Aileach Mhór.
 
The subsequent history of Grianán Ailigh - from AD 789 to its demolition in 1101 by the King of Munster – is well documented insofar as specific dates have been established for the various battles and internecine killings that took place during that 300 year period. We are told also that from within those hallowed walls, so high up on the hill, sprung the great McLaughlin clan, and of course their cousins the O’Neills, but as well as that, so many High Kings of Ireland. Whether this is historically true or not, we can never be sure if anyone actually lived in Grianán Ailigh, or that it was indeed the seat of kings.
Did it have, I wonder, more of a symbolic use for the various tribes? Or was it used at some period for rituals or even stellar and solar observations?  Was it, in effect, the Newgrange of Ulster with most of its more telling features air-brushed out of existence? Whatever the truth is, its significance must never be underestimated. To this day it remains a lonely, magical place, perched on an even lonelier hill, and, as such, conceals more than it reveals of an illustrious past that in truth we may never really rediscover.
 
Seoirse Ó Dochartaigh
Inis Eoghain
Mí na Bealtaine, 2008
 

[Bettina]

After nearly two months of the meeting having taken place I finally received some information on what went on.

Sent: Tue Jun 24 14:41:09 2008
Subject: Grianan, article

Dear Pádraig McLochlainn,

I have been asked now on several occasions about the outcome of the meeting with the OPW and I would appreciate if the information concerning this meeting would be made available. At the moment neither the people of Inishowen nor Donegal seem to be worthy to receive any information concerning the state and status of their National monument.

You might find this article very interesting:
The State We’re in on the Eve of World Archaeological Congress (WAC) 6: Archaeology in Ireland vs Corporate Takeover(PDF)

Sincerely
Bettina Linke


Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: Grianan, article

The meeting took place and the elected members were satisfied that the works undertaken by the OPW were necessary to safely secure the structure in the long term. We were given a detailed background to the unstable nature of the structure rebuilt in the late 1800s utilising a small remainder of the original ruins and the problems with collapse since.

The next steps are for the promotion of the site. Particularly focusing on the history of the location and the spectacular panoramic view.

Regards, Pádraig


Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: Grianan, article

Dear Pádraig MacLochlainn,

Thank you for your reply.
I thought as much - that the OPW would not find more than a badly attempted challenge and have an easy task pulling the wool over your eyes.
You still have no financial statements for the money they received for the maintenance of the monument to prevent collapse for decades or the work carried out since 2000 nor do you have any proof in your hands for the "unstable nature of the structure" or an independent opinion. And I wont even bother betting that you don't have the extensive survey, which seem to have led to the conclusion of shape-shifting and as much concrete as possible, either. You have still no documentation what so ever. They got what they came for, silencing your pesky concerns with their well tailored fabrication, they, by now, can recite in their sleep, - leaving you and the rest of Inishowen with nothing, as usual.

Sincerely,
Bettina Linke

[shiny]

Hi Bettina............Just hoping for an update on the situation at Grianan.

Is the place still in one piece?

Did Seoirse get round to making prints of his painting? I left a message on his blog but didn't hear anything.